Support for dermatological research in Sub-Saharan Africa: insights from African hair and skin research programs.

BACKGROUND: The structure and physiology of skin and hair in people of African ancestry are different from other ethnic categories and studies from other continents cannot necessarily be extrapolated to Sub-Saharan Africa (SSA) due to the differences in genetics, lifestyle, climate, cultures, and hair and skin care practices. The aim of this report is to highlight the recent advances in local skin and hair research in SSA from a grant program. METHODS: African Hair and Skin Research Grants from an industrial sponsor were awarded between 2013 and 2022 on five main topics: acne, hair and scalp, keloid scars, atopic dermatitis, and air pollution. A literature search in Scopus identified publications on these topics in African or black skin in SSA and worldwide to provide insight into the impact of the program. RESULTS: The number of publications from around the world on the skin and hair of people of African ancestry has increased significantly over the past 30 years on all five topics, especially as a result studies conducted in the United States. Fewer studies have been conducted in SSA but there has been an increasing number of publications over the past 10 years, especially from South Africa. CONCLUSIONS: Scientific and clinical partnerships between the industry, academia, and public healthcare sectors have contributed to a steady increase in hair and skin publications from SSA, which may be useful for the development of tailored products and public educational campaigns to raise awareness of the risks of using inappropriate products.

Combining the use of two non-invasive instruments to confirm that a formula can improve skin luminance while respecting constitutive melanogenesis.

INTRODUCTION: Skin radiance products achieve perceivable benefits with different sort of mechanism of action. AIMS: To use two non-invasive instrumental devices to evaluate the effectiveness of a cosmetic formula designed to improve skin reflectance while respecting skin integrity. PATIENTS AND METHODS: Subjects (N = 43) aged 18-50 years old had healthy skin of phototype V-VI and Individual Typology Angle between -10° and -50°. The treatment was applied twice weekly for 4 weeks on a delineated area of the back, and an adjacent area was left untreated. Instrumental and clinical scoring assessments of treated and untreated skin were performed at baseline and Day 26. RESULTS: Between baseline and Day 26, reflectance (Delta L*) increased by 1.27 points and was considered as clinically relevant. Dermatologist clinical scoring of radiance significantly improved from 2.6 to 3.6 after 4 weeks of treatment and the Skin Color Chart Clarity level significantly decreased from a score of 15.5 to 14.3, representing a skin reflectance improvement. Conversely, the change between baseline and Day 26 in Mexameter Melanin Density was not clinically different for treated skin versus untreated skin (difference of 2.54). At Day 26, changes from baseline for Mexameter Melanin Density and Delta L* parameters appeared to be uncorrelated (r = -0.036). CONCLUSIONS: This combination of two non-invasive devices can be useful to confirm that a product can modulate skin reflectance without modifying constitutive pigmentation. The formula tested in this study did not interfere with constitutive melanogenesis.

Advances in dermatology in sub-Saharan Africa in the past 20 years from workshops to the birth of the African Society of Dermatology and Venereology.

BACKGROUND: Highly pigmented African skin and hair have distinct characteristics because of their unique physiology and structure. Twenty years ago, despite an increasing number of dermatology specialists in some African countries, there remained a paucity of collaborative research and workshops on African hair and skin, and there was a need for an inclusive African society to represent dermatologists from all English and French-speaking countries in sub-Saharan Africa. METHODS: We documented significant research advances between 2000 and 2021 on African hair and skin physiology, as well as clinical dermatology, in sub-Saharan Africa. RESULTS: The main advances documented include the launch of annual African hair and skin workshops in 2004, the introduction of African research grants and the Africaderm web platform in 2013, and the registration of the African Society of Dermatology and Venereology (ASDV) in 2015, which led to the inaugural scientific meeting of ASDV in 2016. CONCLUSION: There have been significant research advances in African hair and skin over the past 20 years. As skin physiology and skin conditions are similar across sub-Saharan Africa, scientific and clinical partnerships between companies, academia, and public health care sectors have played a key role in translating new scientific findings on African hair and skin to ensure knowledge is shared. This information has helped educate African specialists, health care workers, and consumers, with a particular focus on the preventable nature of certain dermatoses like skin bleaching-related complications and traction alopecia.

Sun Exposure and Black Skin.

Black skin, compared with white skin, is generally assumed to be more resistant to the consequences of sun exposure due to its epidermal melanin content. However, recent scientific evidence shows that black skin is not completely impervious to sunlight. Both clinical and -experimental data have reported sun-induced effects on black skin. Black skin can warm, burn and peel when -exposed to the sun. Exposure to the sun can also cause hyperpigmentation and photoageing manifestations. The current misconceptions expressed by most black individuals about their resistance to sun-induced effects prevent their engagement in sun safe behaviours. Therefore, the demystification of the harmful effects of the sun needs to be supported by more research studies showing the effectiveness of sun protection strategies for the black population.

Long-Term Benefits of Daily Photo-Protection With a Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen in United States Hispanic Female Population.

aThe Vitiligo and Pigmentation Institute of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA bDepartment of Dermatology, Howard University, Washington, DC cL’Oreal Research and Innovation, Paris, France dL’Oreal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ.

Photoaging and Photoprotection in United States Hispanic Population

Photoaging is a complex and chronic process that induces structural and functional changes in sun-exposed skin, including coarse wrinkles, laxity, dyschromia, telangiectasias, and potential precancerous lesions. Pigmented skin presents different structure and physiology that contribute to distinctive photoaging process. The skin of color population is reported to "age better" than their Caucasian counterparts in general, with fewer wrinkles and better skin texture. However, pigmentary disorders and sun-exposure related dyschromia are highly prevalent in skin of color. Hispanics are the fastest growing population in the U.S. and represents a heterogenous group of people with different skin tones and Fitzpatrick phototypes. They demonstrate large diversity and heterogeneity in skin physiology, pigmentary disorders, and photoaging-related skin color shifting. Specific concerns around hyperpigmentation, skin tone evenness, and texture or roughness are very common among Hispanics, demanding targeted medical and cosmeceutical solutions. Customized daily routines including sufficient photo-protection are essential to address such needs. This mini review identifies some of the specific skin concerns of Hispanics in America and emphasizes the needs for long-term sunscreen use and education. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(3 Suppl):s121-123.

A randomized study to evaluate the efficacy and effectiveness of two sunscreen formulations on Indian skin types IV and V with pigmentation irregularities.

BACKGROUND: Regular exposure to ultraviolet rays is high in India, where most Indians present Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV and V. AIMS: To evaluate the efficacy and compare the effectiveness of two sunscreen products on Indian skin types IV and V with pigmentation irregularities. METHODS: A randomized, uncontrolled and investigator-blinded, single-center study enrolled adult men and women (18-45 years) with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV (28° < individual typological angle <10°) and V (10° < individual typological angle < -30°) with pigmentary abnormalities seen on the face in adults (actinic lentigines and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation), who did not use sunscreens. Participants were randomized (1:1) to either of the two marketed sunscreen products, Product A (sun protection factor 50 PA+++) or Product B (sun protection factor 19 PA+++), applied twice daily before sun exposure for ≥2 h. Primary objectives aimed at assessing possible improvement in hyperpigmented spots and overall skin appearance after 12 weeks of use. Evaluation of skin radiance and skin color was done by means of L'Oréal color chart and colorimetric measurements (Chromameter®). RESULTS: Among the 230 enrolled participants, 216 (93.91%) completed the study. The clinical assessment of the density of pigmented spots and skin radiance showed significant (P < 0.001) improvement in both groups during all visits. The qualitative (participant perception) and quantitative (Chromameter®) data indicated improvement in pigmentation from Week 0 to Week 12. Both products were well-tolerated. LIMITATIONS: The study was conducted over a rather short period of time (12 weeks) at a single location. CONCLUSIONS: This is the first study conducted on Indian skin phototypes IV and V under real-life conditions. It demonstrated the effect of regular sunscreen usage in the prevention of certain signs of skin photoaging such as increased pigmentation or pigmentary abnormalities, thus providing support and assistance to clinicians in suggesting the use of efficient sun-screening products to patients.

The Rationale of Anti-Aging Cosmetic Ingredients.

Anti-aging cosmetics are a mainstay in the skin care regimen irrespective of gender or human ethnics. Skin aging involves functional slowdown combined with environmental induced alterations. This paper focuses on cosmetic ingredients that aim at alleviating the signs of skin aging, with proven/controlled results of efficacy. Anti-aging skin care widely benefits from new ingredients and modern evaluation methods that can substantiate the effects of innovative products in a perceivable and sensitive manner. Our approach in controlling skin aging consists of following steps: 1) Developing novel testing methods; 2) Preventing photo-aging by sunscreens that protect from UV damage; 3) Protecting and restoring skin from damage induced by environmental exposure through active ingredients; 4) Boosting the cell metabolism and cell renewal to restore skin mechanical properties and improved appearance.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2017;16(6 Suppl):s94-97.

Impact of dermatologic adverse events induced by targeted therapies on quality of life.

BACKGROUND: Investigations about the impact of dermatologic adverse events on quality of life in the context of targeted therapies are quite recent and results vary in some dimensions. This article aims to summarize the existing data and to clarify needs in terms of clinical management and future research. METHODS: A literature review was done with Pubmed, Medline, Scopus and PsycInfo databases and it combined the empirical studies published in English and in French over the past ten years. RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS: Dermatologic adverse events globally have a low to moderate impact on quality of life, mainly in the physical and emotional domains. Reasons for inter-individual variations in adjustment and long-term impact are still not well known. Making quality of life assessments systematic, making early referrals of patients to dermatology consultations and giving more attention to individual experience were identified as measures that could help prevent deterioration in quality of life.

Impact of Skin Toxicities Associated with Targeted Cancer Therapies on Body Image: A Prospective Study.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVE: Body-image issues associated with dermatological side effects induced by anticancer-targeted therapies have not been specifically explored until now despite growing literature about their impact on quality of life. Prospective and longitudinal investigations were needed. The aim of our study was to describe body-image changes occurring with cutaneous toxicities and their psychosocial impact on patients. PATIENTS AND METHODS: Thirty-three patients were evaluated four times during the first 3 months of targeted therapy in terms of body satisfaction, physical attitudes and depression with validated and ad hoc questionnaires. The NCI-CTCAE V4.0 was used to grade adverse dermatological events. Descriptive and inferential analyses were conducted with SPSS 14.0 software. RESULTS: Ninety-four per cent of the patients developed skin toxicities. Body satisfaction remained stable and slightly better than average over this period. About one-third of the patients reported body-image issues at baseline. Body satisfaction and depression levels at baseline appeared to be significantly associated with body-image issues after 3 months of therapy. CONCLUSION: In the framework of regular dermatological monitoring, skin toxicities did not appear to be associated with body-image issues. Body satisfaction and depressive symptoms at the beginning of targeted therapy emerged as critical factors that practitioners should consider in order to prevent deterioration of body image that could impact on quality of life and compromise compliance.

Nail toxicities induced by systemic anticancer treatments.

Patients treated with systemic anticancer drugs often show changes to their nails, which are usually well tolerated and disappear on cessation of treatment. However, some nail toxicities can cause pain and functional impairment and thus substantially affect a patient's quality of life, especially if they are given taxanes or EGFR inhibitors. These nail toxicities can affect both the nail plate and bed, and might present as melanonychia, leukonychia, onycholysis, onychomadesis, Beau's lines, or onychorrhexis, as frequently noted with conventional chemotherapies. Additionally, the periungual area (perionychium) of the nail might be affected by paronychia or pyogenic granuloma, especially in patients treated with drugs targeting EGFR or MEK. We review the nail changes induced by conventional chemotherapies and those associated with the use of targeted anticancer drugs and discuss preventive or curative options.

New insights in photoaging, UVA induced damage and skin types.

UVA radiation is the most prevalent component of solar UV radiation; it deeply penetrates into the skin and induces profound alterations of the dermal connective tissue. In recent years, the detrimental effects of UVA radiation were more precisely demonstrated at cellular and molecular levels, using adequate methods to identify biological targets of UVA radiation and the resulting cascade impairment of cell functions and tissue degradation. In particular gene expression studies recently revealed that UVA radiation induces modulation of several genes confirming the high sensitivity of dermal fibroblasts to UVA radiation. The major visible damaging effects of UVA radiation only appear after years of exposure: it has been clearly evidenced that they are responsible for more or less early signs of photoageing and photocarcinogenesis. UVA radiation appears to play a key role in pigmented changes occurring with age, the major sign of skin photoaging in Asians. Skin susceptibility to photoaging alterations also depends on constitutive pigmentation. The skin sensitivity to UV light has been demonstrated to be linked to skin color type.

[Impact of cutaneous toxicities associated with targeted therapies on quality of life. Results of a longitudinal exploratory study]. / Impact des toxicités cutanées associées aux thérapies ciblées sur la qualité de vie. Résultats d'une étude pilote longitudinale.

Targeted therapies represent a promising option in cancer treatment, which have shown tumor control and patients survival benefits. But these drugs have systemic side effects, in particular frequent and various cutaneous effects. Few data have been published about the impact of these symptoms on patients' quality of life, particularly for psychological and social aspects. That is why we wished to evaluate this impact in order to propose a preventive management and optimize patients' care. Twenty-seven patients participated in both evaluation times of a longitudinal quantitative pilot study. They completed the same set of psychological questionnaires before taking treatment and 30 days after. Patients were mainly men with a metastatic lung, digestive or cutaneous cancer. Analyses showed that dermatological symptoms in 22 patients were associated for a majority of them with a decrease of quality of life, characterized by difficulties in houseworks and leisure activities, and a social functioning impairment. Adverse skin events did not seem to affect emotional state. These results must be confirmed by further investigations in a larger-scale prospective research.

Skin cancer in skin of color: an update on current facts, trends, and misconceptions.

For many fair-skinned individuals around the world, skin cancer is the leading malignancy. Although skin cancer comprises only 1% to 2% of all malignancies in those with darker complexions, the mortality rates in this subgroup are substantially higher when compared with their Caucasian counterparts. This discrepancy is largely as a result of delayed detection/treatment, and a false perception among patient and physician that brown skin confers complete protection against skin cancer. Recent studies show that 65% of surveyed African Americans never wore sunscreen, despite living in sunny climates, and that more than 60% of minority respondents erroneously believed that they were not at risk for skin cancer. Dark skin offers some protection from ultraviolet (UV) light. However, there is considerable heterogeneity in skin of color, a phenomenon that is accentuated by mixed heritage. Ethnicity does not confer skin type anymore. People of color do experience sunburn, and from a biological point of view, all skin types appear to be sensitive to UV-induced DNA damage, with an inverse relationship between skin color and sensitivity to UV light. Our population is changing rapidly, and within the next few decades minority populations will become the majority. It is therefore imperative to educate both physicians and patients on the perceived immunity against cutaneous malignancies, the need for sun protection, and the clinical signs of skin cancer in non-Caucasian people, so that future unnecessary mortality can be avoided.

Determination of Melanin and Haemoglobin in the Skin of Idiopathic Cutaneous Hyperchromia of the Orbital region (ICHOR): A Study of Indian Patients.

BACKGROUND: Idiopathic cutaneous hyperchromia at the orbital region (ICHOR) is a cutaneous hyperchromia characterised by bilateral darkening of the eyelid and orbital skin that contrasts with the adjoining facial skin. ICHOR is frequent in dark skin. It interferes with the face appearance which often causes difficulties in societal acceptance and may impact quality of life. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this investigation was to study the epidemiology, clinical features and risk factors associated with ICHOR in Indian patients and also to study the distribution of melanin and haemoglobin in ICHOR patients. This study also assessed the relevance of SIAscopy technique (spectrophotometric intracutaneous analysis (SIA)), a new objective non-invasive method to measure melanin and haemoglobin concentration in vivo. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Thirty-three patients diagnosed with ICHOR at the All India Institute of Medical Sciences, New Dehli, India, were included in the study. Epidemiological data were collected through a self-administrated questionnaire. Standard photographs were taken from each patient and SIAscopy measurements were done on dark circles and normal skin. RESULTS: Surprisingly our study showed no significant correlation between ICHOR prevalence and family history, atopic and contact dermatitis, contemporaneous melasma and hormonal factors. The study confirms that sun exposure is a risk factor of dark circles aggravation. Indeed patients tend to reduce sun exposure after the onset of dark circles. SIAscopy analysis reveals significant differences in the concentration of total melanin, of dermal melanin and of haemoglobin between ICHOR skin and normal skin of the same patient. CONCLUSION: This study confirms that melanin deposits and blood stasis in dark circles may play a role in ICHOR pathogenesis and cause the darkening of skin under eyes. SIAscopy provides objective diagnostic information about ICHOR.

Cutaneous solar ultraviolet exposure and clinical aspects of photodamage.

Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation reaching the earth is a combination of UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm) wavelengths. Since UVA is less energetic than UVB, UVB has long been thought to be the factor responsible for the damaging effects of solar radiation. But with modern tools such as in vitro models, it has been proven that UVA plays a major role. The objective of this review is to show how skin may be exposed to UV light and to highlight the clinical aspects of UV-induced skin damages with the respective contribution of UVB or UVA. Even if UVA is less energetic than UVB, it is more abundant and penetrates deeper into the skin, reaching as far as the dermis. Various factors also influence skin exposure to UV light: the latitude, season, and time of the day. Acute as well as chronic sun exposure induces short- and long-term clinical damages. Erythema and pigmentation are immediate responses of normal human skin exposed to UV radiation. The long-term effects are photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. In particular, UVA appears to play a major role in the deterioration of dermal structure leading to the photoaged appearance of the skin.

Proteomic analysis identifies new biomarkers for postmenopausal and dry skin.

A proteomic analysis of stratum corneum (SC) samples of normal healthy skin revealed the presence of more than 70 proteins by 2D electrophoresis. The majority of these proteins to our knowledge have not yet been described in normal SC. We analysed by Western blot the levels of 25 proteins in the SC taken from postmenopausal and dry skin compared with young and normal skin, respectively. In postmenopausal skin, there was a significantly increased amount of heat shock protein 27, plakoglobin and desmoglein 1, whereas transglutaminase 3, apolipoprotein D and acid ceramidase levels were significantly reduced compared with the SC of young skin. We confirmed corneodesmosin as a marker of dry skin. In addition, we showed for the first time that the levels of both phosphatidylethanolamine-binding protein 1 and annexin A2 were significantly increased in the SC of dry skin compared with the SC of normal skin. These results suggest that a proteomic analysis of the SC obtained using a non-invasive varnish stripping method is an attractive alternative to invasive methods to better characterize changes in the physiology of ageing and dry skin.